The Jere Jef cake

brennapeterson
Apr 20
4 min read

The highlight of today, Easter Sunday, was having lunch at our host teacher's house. We intended to begin at eleven, but in typical Senegalese fashion, it started at one o'clock.

We used the additional morning time to savor crepes for breakfast and explore the area around our hotel. During our walk, we encountered some Fulbrighters from Louga who were visiting, and it was wonderful to see them! We then met a local gentleman who became our spontaneous tour guide. He showed us a school, which happened to be our host's alma mater, a movie theater, and several hotels. We even listened to the organ playing for the Easter service at a Catholic church. We attempted to visit the photography museum, but it was closed. We'll try again tomorrow.

Upon arriving, I noticed that their home was large compared to others we've seen. Fatoumata and Dominique have eight children between the two of them. We received a warm welcome and entered the living room area. We chatted and listened to music together. I sang along to many of the songs since they were remixes of American tunes. I enjoy vibing and singing along with our hosts; we always have a great time together.

Fatoumata was busy in the kitchen preparing rice, fish, and vegetables for lunch. I noticed that there is no running water in the kitchen, so buckets of water and bottles are used the way we use the sink/running water back home. We enjoyed playing with her boys, they have four under fifteen and talking with their university-aged daughter.

We had inquired about bringing something to the lunch to contribute but were told not to. A few days earlier, we visited a Patisserie (a French bakery/restaurant) and saw their amazing cakes. We decided to order a large chocolate cake and requested the frosting to say "Jere Jef," which means thank you in Wolof. Our hosts were surprised and grateful for such a generous and thoughtful gesture. It seems that bakery cakes are not something most locals get to enjoy frequently.

Around four o'clock, we were told that lunch was ready. Observing the home, most Americans might wonder why there was only one couch in the main area. I quickly understood the reason: meals are served on the floor on large picnic blankets or tablecloths. People remove their shoes, wash their hands, and then sit around a silver platter. This platter accommodates five to seven people.

We had three platters arranged on the floor around the room. My mind went to the concept of the adult and kids' table at meals as I was around one platter with adults, there was a second platter, and the kiddos were gathered around another one. You use your right hand (as the left is considered impolite). Everyone uses a spoon and eats directly from the communal tray. Using bare hands is also acceptable if hands are cleaned with soap or bleach. One person from each platter uses their hands to tear the meat and distribute it around the edges of the platter so everyone can have some.

The dish was very flavorful. At the farm, we tried Yassa Chicken, but this version was made with fish. This dish was spicier than the one we had at the farm. Fatoumata mentioned that she visited her mother yesterday, who had provided her with a different type of rice for the meal. She noted that Americans prefer this rice over the one from yesterday, which resembled couscous.

After dinner, we helped wrap up the cloths from dinner and move the platters into the kitchen. Then we returned to the living room for more visiting and listening to music. Then it was time for cake. Fatoumata cut the cake and placed it on individual plates, and we helped disperse it to everyone. I thought the filling was delicious.

They were adamant that we were guests and shouldn't bring anything to the meal, but I'm pleased we managed to find something to contribute. Our hosts, drivers, and their families have done so much for us. We are genuinely grateful for the care and time they have devoted to helping us with our arrangements and experiences. We brought some gifts to the lunch and presented them to them.

We ended the evening being driven back to our hotel. We were supposed to go to dinner with our IREX/Fulbright coordinator who was visiting, but her hotel was too far away. The restaurant ended up being closed, so we opted to get some crackers and cheese at a grocery store and ate it in the lounge with some beverages we ordered. It was fun to debrief and laugh with our team. Tomorrow our hosts are bringing our coordinator to our hotel, and she will be joining us on our trip to where the "river meets the sea."